AN EMBROIDERED 'MIDNIGHT BLUE' SILK FORMAL COURT ROBE, CHAOFU

The chaofu, or attire of state, is the most important of the ceremonial costumes of the Qing court comprising: chaopao or robe of the state, piling or projecting epaulets, hat, girdle, court necklace, and boots. The two-part construction of chaopao consisted of a short side-fastening jacket attached to a pleated skirt, derived from Ming styles of court dress, and was adapted by the Manchu to incorporate features reflecting their equestrian heritage, such as the curved overlapping right front, a shape derived from animal skins which was added for extra covering and protection; narrow sleeves with their lower portion replaced with ribbed silk, allowing the wearer to bend his arm more easily when hunting; and horse-hoof cuffs, originally intended to protect the hands when riding in bad weather.

The current 'midnight-blue' chaopao is embroidered with four front-facing, five-clawed dragons on the upper body and four five-clawed dragons shown in profile on the skirt, which correspond to the specifications cited in Huangchao liqi tushi (Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court) for a first-rank or second-rank prince.