VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RETRO GOLD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PASSE-PARTOUT' SUITE
Lot 484PROPERTY OF A LADY

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RETRO GOLD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PASSE-PARTOUT' SUITE

Closed23 June 2021

Price Realised

GBP 325,000

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS RETRO GOLD, RUBY, SAPPHIRE, COLOURED SAPPHIRE AND DIAMOND 'PASSE-PARTOUT' SUITE
Comprising a gold serpent link chain, a bracelet watch with concealed dial, a pair of clip brooches convertable for use with serpent chain as bracelet and necklace, a further clip brooch convertable for use as a belt, a ring, a pair of earrings, circa 1938 and a pair of tortoiseshell mounted hair combs
STONES: circular-cut rubies, circular and cushion-cut sapphires, cushion-cut yellow sapphires, circular-cut diamonds
SIGNATURE: watch: dial signed Van Cleef & Arpels; clip brooches: detachable fitting signed Van Cleef & Arpels; ring: signed VCA NY
MARKS: chain: French marks; clip brooches: French marks; detachable fitting no. 51285; clip brooch no. 51285
SIZE/DIMENSIONS: chain with extension 75.0 cm; watch 16.0 cm; clip brooches 7.0 cm; clip brooch 4.2 cm; ring size F ½ with integrated sizing hoop
GROSS WEIGHT: 442.0 grams
This lot incorporates material from endangered species which could result in export restrictions.

Given as a wedding gift to the vendor’s grandmother in 1939 and thence by descent.

Specialist note

It is rare to encounter such a comprehensive suite of ‘Passe-Partout’ jewellery and even more unusual that it has been in the same family since it was acquired around the time of its conception.

Patented in France on 8 August 1938 and in New York on 20 April 1939, the Passe-Partout design was one of the first transformative jewels created by Van Cleef & Arpels. It immediately appealed to the modern woman as it could be adapted to be worn in a number of ways to suit different clothes and situations. Usually formed from detachable blue and yellow flowerhead clusters with a ruby or coloured sapphire centre,  a hidden technical innovation in the form of a system of rails enables a flexible gold snake chain to slide in and out allowing the piece to transform into necklaces of different lengths, a bracelet and even a belt. This particular suite includes a ring, a pair of hair combs a bracelet watch and ear clips. This avant-garde design soon became a favourite of many stylish and prominent women including actress Paulette Goddard, wife of Charlie Chaplin, heiress Doris Duke and Hélène Arpels.