Christie’s roundel
Lot 2423 At the height of their dominance of the jewelry industry Cartier's power came from three offices around the world, Paris, New York and London. Each office was run by a member of the Cartier family, three brothers, Louis Cartier in Paris, Pierre in New York and Jacques in London. Cartier's office in London was opened in 1902 at 4 New Burlington Street, Jacques moved there in 1906 and moved the firm to 175/176 New Bond Street where it remains to this day. Each office was relatively independent establishing a style for themselves but also manufacturing pieces for one another. Cartier London was well known for their important jewelry (that was distributed to Paris and New York), Clocks and Tiaras. The stylized geometric style illustrated in this bracelet was mostly the work of the designer Frederick Pew who collaborated closely with Jacques Cartier. Protocol and etiquette had changed little since the First World War and formal jewelry was still obligatory at the Court of St James 's. Rubies and emeralds were the favored colored gems and this bracelet would probably be one of the last extremely important pieces made before the outbreak of World War II when business was to change dramatically


A HIGHLY IMPORTANT ART DECO RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER

Closed1 December 2009

Price Realised

HKD 6,020,000

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A HIGHLY IMPORTANT ART DECO RUBY AND DIAMOND BRACELET, BY CARTIER
Designed as a stylised articulated band, centering upon an arched panel set with two rows of twenty-two oval and cushion-shaped rubies, alternated by square-shaped diamonds, within a baguette and brilliant-cut diamond trim, to the tapered pavé-set diamond panels joined by interlocking geometric links and an oval-shaped ruby accent, mounted in platinum, 1938, 17.5 cm long, in fitted red leather Cartier case

Signed Cartier London, No. 4821
Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Cartier

Also accompanied by report no. 41428 dated 22 July 2003 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the twenty-four rubies are of Burma (Myanmar) origin with no indications of thermal enhancement

The total weight of the certified rubies is 38.06 carats

Specialist note

US$625,000-1,000,000