KOCH: A FINE EARLY 20TH CENTURY NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND TIARA

Founded in Frankfurt in 1879 by Robert Koch, the firm soon became synonymous with exceptional jewels and exquisite craftmanship. One of Germany’s leading jewellers, they were made ‘Jeweller to the Court’ in 1883 and went on to supply almost all the princely houses in Germany, as well as to European aristocracy including the Prince of Wales, the Tsar of Russia and the King of Italy.
Today Koch tiara’s are still found in Royal Collections, including the Prussian tiara in Spain and the Baden Palmette tiara in Denmark.
The delicateness of this tiara is typical of early 20th century jewellery. Technological advances now allowed for the use of platinum, permitting jewellers to move away from traditional bulky silver settings, instead capitalising on the strength of platinum which held gemstones in place with minimal amounts of metal.
Floral and foliate motifs and the language they convey were enthusiastically adopted by goldsmiths, most frequently bearing a message of romantic nature. Myrtle represented love, peace and fertility, an association that has its roots in Ancient times - Ovid described Venus as holding a sprig of myrtle as she emerged from the sea, the Greeks believed the smell to be an aphrodisiac and it has close associations with the goddesses Demeter and Aphrodite. Additionally, the use of pearl berries was a fitting choice for a tiara; the Greeks believed them to be the tears of joy shed by the goddess Aphrodite, consequently viewing them as a symbol of love, devotion and marriage.