VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CLIP NOEUD TURQUOISE

Fermé14 December 2021

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EUR 10,625

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CLIP NOEUD TURQUOISE
METAL: 18k (750) yellow gold (French assay marks)
TURQUOISE: oval cabochon turquoise with approximate total weight of 12.00-15.00 carats
DATE: circa 1942
MARKS: signed VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, maker’s mark (Van Cleef & Arpels), numbered

SIZE/DIMENSIONS: 7.4 x 6.2 cm
GROSS WEIGHT: 35.56 grams

During the war years, jewellery industry survived as best it could: some workshops closed and raw materials became scarce. Gold was in desperately short supply, and had to be provided by customers, with the state taking a 20% cut. Nevertheless, far from disabling the creators, constraints stimulated their imagination: it was the beginning of an intense period for gold work. To mask its scarcity, it was subtly worked in hollows so as to reproduce the weave of certain fabrics.

Light and airy, gold quickly appeared in thread and openwork: fishnet bows, such as this brooch, were soon featured in the Van Cleef & Arpels collections and enjoyed dazzling success in the 1940s. Less expensive, precious stones were also often replaced by fine stones and hard stones, as this turquoise cabochon.

Although the economic situation made jewellery a derisory item, it remained the last bastion of coquetry for women. Outfits during the Occupation, sober and functional, were then adorned with these accessories, of which this brooch is a magnificent example.

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