CARTIER. AN EARLY AND VERY RARE PLATINUM AND 18K GOLD SQUARE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH PALLADIUM BRACELET AND BOX
Lot 66 CARTIER
EARLY PLATINUM & GOLD SANTOS

CARTIER. AN EARLY AND VERY RARE PLATINUM AND 18K GOLD SQUARE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH PALLADIUM BRACELET AND BOX

SIGNED CARTIER, BTE S.G.D.G., SANTOS MODEL, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO., INC. AND NUMBERED 14'063, CASE NOS. 8998, 14'063, CIRCA 1920

Closed8 November 2021

Price Realised

CHF 47,500

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CARTIER. AN EARLY AND VERY RARE PLATINUM AND 18K GOLD SQUARE-SHAPED WRISTWATCH WITH PALLADIUM BRACELET AND BOX
SIGNED CARTIER, BTE S.G.D.G., SANTOS MODEL, MOVEMENT SIGNED EUROPEAN WATCH AND CLOCK CO., INC. AND NUMBERED 14'063, CASE NOS. 8998, 14'063, CIRCA 1920
Movement: Manual
Dial: Silvered
Case: 25 mm. wide,
With: Palladium bracelet, pink gold deployant clasp stamped EJ for Edmond Jaeger and with French assay marks, numbered 9186, overall length approximately 150 mm., fitted Cartier presentation box, the top gold-tooled with initials ‘G.C’

Specialist note

Amongst the most well-known and appreciated timepieces of Cartier, the Santos was developed following a request from the Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont to Louis Cartier. An aviation pioneer, Mr. Dumont was experiencing difficulties in reading time with his pocket watch while operating controls during flights, leading Cartier to provide him with a prototype wristwatch in the early 1900, later known as the Santos. The first timepiece with integrated lugs, the wristwatch was considered the first modern wristwatch for men and was crafted with a cabochon sapphire crown, which became throughout the years a distinctive feature of Cartier timepieces.

Crafted in platinum, the present timepiece is a very rare and highly attractive variation of the model - the palladium bracelet is fitted with a pink gold deployant clasp stamped ‘EJ’ for Edmond Jaeger, designed by Jaeger in collaboration with Louis Cartier and patented in 1910.

Furthermore, the dial of the present watch features the notation ‘Bte. S. G. D. G.’, which stands for ‘Brevet Sans Garantie du Gouvernement’, a French legal remark that signifies the government does not guarantee the functioning of the patented device. Such legal notations, similar examples are ‘patented’ and ‘patent pending’, are sometimes found on movements, dials or cases of vintage pieces.

Both case and movement are bearing the number 14'063, confirming that the movement was originally cased into this watch.