BILLYBOY* & LALA
Lot 44THE PROPERTY OF A DISTINGUISHED MODERN GENTLEMAN

BILLYBOY* & LALA

One Cent-Big Change

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USD 3,750

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BILLYBOY* & LALA
One Cent-Big Change
marked and stamped with the artist's signature 'MDVANIISM BILLYBOY* & LALA' (on the side); marked and dated 'IN GOD WE TRUST/LIBERTY/2012' (on the front); numbered and marked with the hallmark '925' (on the side); marked 'UNITED STATES OF AMERICA/E.PLURIBUS.UNUM./ONE CENT' (on the reverse)
coin with diamonds, rubies and sapphires
Diameter: 2 ½ in. (7 cm.)
Executed in 2012 in an edition of twenty; this example is a unique prototype from outside of the regular edition

Note du spécialiste

"Mon credo is Life is Fabulous. It may sound phony, but the thing to remember is that you never know when you're going to be amused." - BillyBoy* in New York magazine, aged 23.

Spanning all disciplines, BillyBoy*'s extraordinary creative output unites the genres of performance, fine art, design, curation and literature into a myriad whole of expression. His repertoire unabashedly combines seriousness with satire, sartorialism with surrealism and life with art. True to his maxim, BillyBoy* exposes the extraordinary in the everyday in the vast emporium of life where beauty lies in the unexpected.

One Cent-Big Change, was created in 2012 to express the artists' support of President Barack Obama's endorsement of equal rights regarding marriage in the United States. In this jewel-studded work, the profile of President Lincoln is replaced by that of President Obama, facing forward and signifying progression. It is an enlarged one cent copper coin, with the inscription and date `LIBERTY 2012'. The singular coin and statement refer to the tenets of American core values and sovereignty; the power of the individual and the importance of freedom. The object is bought to epic proportions, magnifying it to exemplify its power and imbuing concentrated attention on the everyday motif in manner reminiscent of pop art. President Obama´s declaration of equal rights for gay people and the LGBTQ community thus stands as an important statement commemorated in this powerful jewel.


BILLYBOY* & LALA

Born in Austria, BillyBoy* was raised between continental Europe and the United States. As he develops in his recently published memoirs Frocking Life – In Search of Elsa Schiaparelli (Rizzoli, 2016), his discovery of a hat by Elsa Schiaparelli at age of 14 in a Paris marché aux puces famously propelled his imagination, inspiring a lifelong identification with the famous designer which would encourage his resolutely creative disposition. Now the world's foremost expert on the designer, and an authority on European couture, dolls and modern design, BillyBoy* began equally as a scholar, albeit of the under-recognised medium of fashion. His creative output reflects the seriousness of his passion for these subjects and yet the knowingness of his endeavour, whilst sharply intelligent and witty, remains devoutly curious and joyously playful amid the richness and breadth of creative possibilities.

BillyBoy*'s oeuvre to date is extensive. Having undertaken his first curatorial project in New York at the tender age of 16, Pizzaz Gallery, BillyBoy* would create under designer labels such as Surreal Couture and his own gallery Fly By Nite, undertaking performance, modelling and painterly projects during the 1970s and into the early 1980s. Androgynous, irreverent and avant-garde, BillyBoy* became established within the milieu of New York's extraordinary creative scene, frequenting the galleries, studios and clubs amongst the best known icons of the time. He was recognised as one of the foremost exponents of wearable art whose exuberant unisex creations were seen in publications such as Vogue, the New York Times and The Village Voice. A protégé of Diana Vreeland, his work was revered by both the art and fashion communities with examples of his work under the label Surreal Couture now held in, amongst many other museums, the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Musée du Louvre in the prestigious Union Française des Arts du Costume department. BillyBoy* sees his warble artworks as autobiographical Theosophical talismans and Wiccan totems. Having been raised into Theosophy and Wicca by his families, the jewels are not created just as adornments but positive amulets with a spiritual power and a strong metaphysical story.

In the late 1970s, BillyBoy* took the decision in to relocate to Paris, the city forever at the spiritual heart of the artist's imagination. In the following years, by early 1982, BillyBoy* met his life partner and now husband Jean-Pierre Lestrade, dit Lala. A Frenchman born in Algers, Lala was an artist who had starred in cabaret and film projects, written for publications Gaie-Presse and Magazine and was, at the time of their meeting, the singer and songwriter for New Wave band Lala et les Emotions. Their synergy engendered an instant natural creative partnership, inspiring a new endeavour, the Surreal Bijoux creations. Jewellery and accessories were a natural and fundamental element of BillyBoy*'s repertoire from the beginning. This was not least in the sense that they had engendered his first creative epiphany and continued the trajectory of his spiritual guardian and mentor Elsa Schiaparelli who had collaborated with an impressive array of surrealist artists including Salvador Dalí, Alberto Giacometti, Jean Cocteau and Méret Oppenheim to realise inspired creations.

Surreal Bijoux began in the kitchen of the pair's new home in Paris whereby they would create pieces together by hand. The collection grew out of an artistic manifesto into a brand when worn by former fashion model and high society personality Bettina Graziani who was an early convert to their work. Their appearance on her caused quite a sensation and were at one point spotted by Gerry Stutz, owner of Henri Bendel, the prestigious Manhattan store, who at once ordered one hundred pieces. Following this, John Duka of the New York Times wrote a rave review of the jewels entitled Winning with a 'Cartoon Chanel' Collection, remarking "It is the best work of this kind since Ken Begun revitalized costume jewelry six years with its golden mesh, putty and gold leaf... It has a free-form chic to it." and describing the Surreal Bijoux necklaces as "pure, heaped-up luxe."

Within several hours, the collection was sold out and the acknowledgment of Surreal Bijoux was firmly established in New York. The popularity of the jewels would continue with BillyBoy*'s wearable works of art featuring on many a celebrity including Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Onassis, Lauren Bacall, Debbie Reynolds, Cary Grant, Gene Kelly, Yma Sumac, Andy Warhol and Fred Hughes, Diana Vreeland, Michael Jackson, Boy George, Madonna, Leigh Bowery, Leonor Fini, Salvador and Gala Dali, Mrs Norman Mailer, Slash, Honorable Mme Bettina Bergery, Marchesa Cacciapuoti di Guigliano,(also known as Go Go Schiaparelli), Régine, Mme Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, Mme Liliane Bettencourt, Ray Charles, Natalie Cole, Prince Mubarak de Al-Sabbat and many others.

Each of the spectacular jewels here presented comes from BillyBoy*’s two famous lines, Surreal Couture (Park Avenue, New York City) and Surreal Bijoux (Rue de la Paix, Paris). To be worn with care and pride, each of these jewels makes a statement, embodying preciousness, personality and spontaneity in equal measure as wearable pieces of art.

References:

https://www.mdvanii.ch/en/article/surreal-bijoux-en
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mdvanii