A COLOURED DIAMOND AND ONYX 'TIGER' BROOCH, BY CARTIER

After the Second World War panthers and latterly tigers became a stalwart of the Cartier design book; their feline aesthetic lending itself perfectly to Cartier's elite clientele's desire for both beauty and power. The first figurative depiction dates from 1919 where a panther in profile appeared on a vanity case made for Jeanne Troussaint, one of Cartier's lead designers. The next, then realistically modelled, followed in 1927 in the form of a brooch set throughout with white diamonds studded with buff top onyx spots. The jewelled tiger appeared in 1954 as gold and enamel lorgnettes bought by the Duchess of Windsor, with a fancy-yellow diamond and black onyx bangle and clip brooch to follow in 1956 and 1959 respectively, also bought by the Duchess. Both bejewelled panthers and tigers have continued to be produced by Cartier throughout the 20th century in almost every form of jewel and remain as popular today as in the instance of their first inception.