Rolex. An extremely fine and heavy platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, day, date, mother-of-pearl dial and bracelet
Lot 200

Rolex. An extremely fine and heavy platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, day, date, mother-of-pearl dial and bracelet

SIGNED ROLEX, OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE, REF. 18956, CASE NO. P197979, CIRCA 2000

Closed10 November 2014

Price Realised

CHF 52,500

More Information

How to sell

Rolex. An extremely fine and heavy platinum and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, day, date, mother-of-pearl dial and bracelet
Signed Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Day-Date, ref. 18956, case no. P197979, circa 2000
Cal. 3155 automatic movement, 31 jewels, mother-of-pearl dial, applied diamond-set numerals, sweep centre seconds, window for date, magnified aperture for day, tonneau-shaped water-resistant-type case, taper-cut diamond-set bezel, screw back, platinum Rolex Pearlmaster bracelet and hidden deployant clasp, case, dial and movement signed
39 mm. diam.

Specialist note

The present watch is an extremely appealing example of haute joaillerie wristwatch by Rolex. The sheer weight of this platinum timepiece is impressive, and conveys an impression of absolute solidity and exclusivity. The dial is mesmerizing: the iridescent mother-of-pearl dances and flutters according to how light strikes the piece, this playful effect underlined and boosted by the sparkle of the diamond-set numerals. The bezel is stunning and technically highly complex. If it was set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the setting operation would be relatively simple, but the metal background would be visible through the gaps between the stones. In this instance, however, the bezel is fitted with what is usually (incorrectly) defined baguette-cut diamond. However, elementary geometry shows that two concentric circles, such as the inner and outer rim of the bezel, necessarily have different circumferences: the outer is longer than the inner. Consequently, baguette-cut diamonds would be impossible to fit into a bezel: they would align in a straight line. Instead, taper-cut stones are used: very similar to baguette-cut ones, but with one side shorter than the other. This allows mounting them in the circular bezel without the slightest gap in between the stones. Of course, each stone must be carefully and specifically cut in order to achieve perfect fit with the other ones. This painstaking procedure allows for a continuous diamond bezel which is as enthralling as it is complex to realize.