Live Auction 1393Magnificent Jewels & The Archduke Joseph Diamond
A SET OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND 'ZIP' JEWELLERY, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Lot 223 THE PROPERTY OF A EUROPEAN FAMILY

A SET OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND 'ZIP' JEWELLERY, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Closed13 November 2012

Price Realised

CHF 255,000

Considering selling a similar item?

Discover its value with a complimentary estimate from our specialists.

More Information

How to sell

A SET OF EMERALD AND DIAMOND 'ZIP' JEWELLERY, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
The necklace designed as a yellow gold zipper trimmed by openwork heart motifs set with circular-cut emeralds and diamonds, to the circular-cut diamond and yellow gold tag and tassel, the upper part of the necklace may be removed and the necklace 'zipped' to form a bracelet, a bracelet en suite, 1955, necklace 38.0 cm, bracelet 15.8 cm, with French assay marks for platinum and gold, necklace in dark blue leather Van Cleef & Arpels pouch, bracelet in brown suede Van Cleef & Arpels pouch
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, nos. 71559 (necklace) and 3935 C.S. (bracelet) (2)

Specialist note

One of the most innovative jewels ever created, the 'Zip' necklace is an iconic design of Van Cleef & Arpels. Legend has it that the Duchess of Windsor asked Renée Puissant, daughter of Alfred Van Cleef and Creative Director of the jewellery house from 1926 to 1942, to create for her a jewelled zip fastener to wear with her evening gowns.
Although the patent was registered in 1938, it was not before World War II was over that the first 'Zip' necklace was actually produced. Capturing the spirit of the time and the 'Couture' style of the 1950s, the 'Zip' necklace is also a staggering technical achievement. The upper part of the necklace can be detached, the necklace is then 'zipped' into a bracelet, the gold thread tassel hanging on the side of the arm.
Few of these versatile jewels were made during the 1950s, which certainly explain why less than 10 have ever appeared at auction. Van Cleef & Arpels has recently launched a new collection of modern 'Zip' necklaces (see lot 321), celebrating this incredible piece of jewellery, the perfect link between 'Haute Joaillerie' and 'Haute Couture'.