A 'MYSTERY-SET' RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND 'DEUX FLEURS' CLIP BROOCH, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Lot 402

A 'MYSTERY-SET' RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND 'DEUX FLEURS' CLIP BROOCH, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Closed29 November 2011

Price Realised

GBP 235,250

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A 'MYSTERY-SET' RUBY, EMERALD AND DIAMOND 'DEUX FLEURS' CLIP BROOCH, BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
The twin flowerheads mounted with mystery-set ruby petals and brilliant-cut diamond pistils to the emerald leaves with baguette-cut diamond detail, 7.1cm long, with French assay marks for gold, in Van Cleef & Arpels grey suede case
Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. M38715

Specialist note

Emblematic of Van Cleef & Arpels style and technical inventions, this 'Pavot' brooch celebrates the art of the jeweller, showcasing their famous 'Mystery Setting'.

The secret behind the 'Mystery Setting' is a delicate lattice of gold or platinum 'threads', each less than two tenths of a millimetre in diameter. The calibré-cut gemstones are selected according to very strict criteria, as they have to fit precisely into where they will be placed. A special groove is cut into the stones and they are 'threaded' onto the lattice. Each gem takes about 90 minutes in preparation, and the lapidary can spend hundreds, even thousands of hours creating just one single jewel. Once the gems are set, the lattice is perfectly covered with gemstones. Both the preparation of the lattice and the stones require incredible skill and dexterity.