Lisbon: ‘It’s as if the city had been dormant but has now awakened — with incredible new energy

With academics, creatives and entrepreneurs riding the Portuguese capital’s ‘wave of change’, Alastair Smart finds out how the return of the good times is benefitting the city’s biggest art collections

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An aerial view of the Praça do Comércio, Lisbon’s principal square, overlooking the Tagus River. It stands on the site of a royal palace that was destroyed by the great earthquake of 1755. Photo: Pavel Dudek / Alamy Stock Photo

Jacques-émile blanche (french, 1861-1942), Fleurs dans un intérior 39​1⁄4 x 31​7⁄8 in (100 x 81 cm). Sold for £37,800 on 15 July 2022 at Christie’s Online

Art in Lisbon has experienced numerous highs, of course, dating back to the Portuguese Renaissance and beyond. The consensus is, however, that it experienced something of a low in the early part of this century, as Portugal itself faced up to a number of economic difficulties (starting with the adjustment to joining the eurozone in 1999).

A visit to CAM provides strong evidence that the good times are back. This summer it hosts

New galleries and tall windows have been added to the original 1983 building, as has a 100-metre-long canopy leading up to the entrance. Panelled in wood, this hovers over visitors like the hull of a ship.

Jacques-émile blanche (french, 1861-1942), Fleurs dans un intérior 39​1⁄4 x 31​7⁄8 in (100 x 81 cm). Sold for £37,800 on 15 July 2022 at Christie’s Online

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